Working remotely in the Balkans as a solo traveler

Ashleigh Bugg, from Travel Bugg, tells her experience in the Balkans, 'an underrated European travel destination'

I am very excited to publish the third post of the series about remote work around the world. This edition's guest is Ashleigh Bugg from Travel Bugg, a Substack that helps you travel with tips, guidelines, and recommendations from places she has been.

Instead of receiving her payment for this text in cash, she chose to donate to the victims of the Rio Grande do Sul tragedy. This act of selflessness is a testament to the spirit of our community. If you're inspired and want to share your own travel experiences, we welcome your contributions. Please leave a comment or respond to this email.

Read the series:

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I got an unexpected email from my landlord in April 2022. My lease in Colorado would not be renewed, and I needed to find another place to live. 

My thoughts raced at first. Where would I go? Where should I live? My roommates had plans to leave for another US state, and I wasn’t keen on moving in with strangers. I didn’t have a vehicle to search for apartments, and areas outside of Denver were tricky to reach by public transport. 

However, my job was fully remote, and I had no restrictions on where I could work from. I decided to try a lifestyle I’d been curious about for years: working remotely while traveling. 

I spoke with my supervisor and got permission to work for three months while wandering across the Balkans. That first trip led to longer spurts of work and travel, including the Six Months in South America series I write about in my newsletter. It’s not a decision I regret, and I’m forever grateful for the chance to travel and work remotely.

For those interested in this working style, I’ll outline my Balkans trip and answer some frequently asked questions. 

1. Countries I visited

2. Internet + phone access

3. Working spaces

4. Accommodation

5. Getting around

6. Cost of living

Mostar, Bosnia

Where did I go?

The countries that make up the Balkans depend on who ask, however most sources recognize 11 countries found on the Balkan peninsula of southeastern Europe: Albania, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Bulgaria, Croatia, Kosovo, Moldova, Montenegro, North Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, and Slovenia.

I visited five of those Balkan countries, along with Greece and Spain.

Albania

From the States, I took a flight to Corfu, Greece, and stayed in Paramonas (a relaxing seaside village beside the Corfu Trail) and then a ferry across to Saranda, Albania. 

If you hold a US passport, you are able to stay in Albania for one year without a visa. It varies for other countries, but 90 days is usually the standard. 

I adored Albania, and although Saranda is pretty packed in the summer months, I’d still recommend visiting, although you’ll have better prices and fewer crowds in the off season.

Saranda, Albania

While there, I traveled around by bus and minibus. Near Saranda, I visited the historic site of Butrint National Park, the medieval town of Gjirokaster, and the seaside village of Ksamil. Later, I traveled to the opposite side of the country to work in Tirana, the capital, and Shkodër, a lakeside town on the border with Montenegro. I also took day trips to see the castle in Petrelë and swim at the beach in Durrës.

I was able to find Wi-Fi easily in the city. There are a few coworking places in Tirana and plenty of coffee shops, although I never needed them since I had good service in my accommodation.

Internet access worked well in Saranda, Tirana, and Shkodër, with only one brief power outage in Shkodër. My wonderful host, however, made sure my access was restored immediately, and I had no further issues. Throughout my trip in Albania, my hosts were extremely hospitable and helpful, and people on the street went out of their way to help me.

North Macedonia

North Macedonia marked a big milestone in my life: it was my 30th country to visit before turning 30. I fell hard for this small, landlocked country that’s only a short minibus trip away from Albania. I ended up staying two weeks in Ohrid, and it became one of my favorite places on my trip. While there, I met two fellow remote workers: Nela and Kristina, inspiring women who speak flawless English and Macedonian, and are working remotely for US-based companies. They also like to work remotely and travel, taking trips to nearby Italy and even China. 

Ohrid, North Macedonia

Macedonia is an underrated pearl, and I enjoyed visiting Europe’s oldest and deepest lake in Ohrid, taking a road trip to hike in Mavrovo National Park, and seeing the mix of Ottoman, Brutalist, and Neoclassical architecture in Skopje, the capital.

I had zero problems with internet access in Ohrid, and although the nightlife is pretty quiet outside of the main tourist season, I found the pace relaxing and was lucky to spend time with locals like Nela and Kristina who made my stay worthwhile.

Montenegro

In Montenegro, I met up with friends and family and made friends with other travelers in the south of the country. Kotor is a popular travel destination, and my friend Vic and I also spent time in Perast and Herceg Novi. For this part of my trip, I took a week of vacation to hang with my cousins and friend. However, I met other remote workers, including a Spanish teacher from Costa Rica, who spent time working around the country without major problems.

Kotor, Montenegro

Bosnia and Herzegovina

My favorite country in the Balkans, please do not miss out on Bosnia and Herzegovina. Sarajevo is one of the best cities I’ve visited, and the early dawn train trip from Mostar to Sarajevo is one of my favorite train trips of all time. If I could pick a Balkans city to live and work from it would probably be Sarajevo. I really enjoyed its access to nature and the welcoming nature of its residents. It’s a city that resonates resilience, and you’ll find a meeting place of cultures, belief systems, and ideals. I also stayed in Mostar and took day trips around the area. It was a nice spot that’s usually full of tour groups but since I stayed a couple days and met up with some local friends and my Turkish friend Alperen, I was able to see more of the village and how people work and live.

Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina

Croatia

At first, I found Croatia overwhelming after the relative tranquility and lack of hardcore tourist presence in other parts of the Balkans. I came to Dubrvonik at the height of the summer season and ended up leaving early due to the crowds. But, I will say that Dubrovnik is stunning, a place out of a storybook, and I enjoyed visiting and working there, despite the crowds in the city center. I made my way back to Croatia to see Split in September, after most vacationers had left, and it was relaxing and perfect for working, hiking, and going to the beach for a few days.

Croatia

Internet + phone access

I found it easy to find Wi-Fi throughout the Balkans, and I actually didn’t use a SIM card or mobile hotspot until I reached Croatia, closer to the end of my trip.

When I did get phone access, I used an app called Airalo to buy local eSim cards. You can also buy a physical SIM card in the country you’re traveling. This was much cheaper than doing an international plan through my phone carrier (which is $10 per day). I paid 5-10 euros for one week to a month of data. Just make sure your phone is unlocked if you go the SIM card method.

Working spaces

All of my hostels and accommodation had decent internet speeds, and I was able to take video calls and have meetings with coworkers and clients. Larger cities like Tirana and Sarajevo also have coworking spaces, and smaller towns will generally have a coffee shop or restaurant with Wi-Fi. One place I like to work when I don’t have meetings is the local library. Many have free internet access that makes it easy to work quietly online.

Accommodation

I found my accommodation through sites like Airbnb and Booking.com. However, for longer stays, I recommend joining a local Facebook group in the area to find people renting rooms. You want to be careful to avoid scams, but if you’re staying in places longer term, this will save you money and avoid the growing fees of sites like Airbnb. I also like to use Google Maps to find local hotels and contact them directly. You can always book a hostel or hotel room for a few days while you walk around the neighborhood to get a better idea of where you’d like to stay longer term and talk to people directly about renting rooms.

Getting around

I flew into Greece from the US and then took a ferry to Albania. I used mostly local buses, shuttle buses, and taxis to get around Albania and Macedonia. I took a private bus tour to get from Croatia to Bosnia although you can easily do this with a public bus. I rode the train (one of my favorite experiences) from Mostar to Sarajevo for about 7 euros and then used local buses for the rest of the trip. You can also hitchhike in the majority of these countries, although I only attempted it once and got a ride up to a castle in Albania.

What is the cost of visiting the Balkans?

As far as daily costs, it depends on your budget, but Albania, Macedonia, and Bosnia were the most affordable countries I visited. Montenegro was not terribly expensive. Croatia was more costly, but still cost less than other European countries, especially the UK and Germany, and even Spain and Italy.

Cost of Living by Country

Please note this is rough data from 2023 based on global averages and factors depending on area, lifestyle, etc. However, from my personal experience, I also found Macedonia, Bosnia, and Albania to be the most affordable, and Montenegro and Croatia to be the most expensive.

North Macedonia

• Monthly cost of living: $629

• World ranking: #141

Bosnia and Herzegovina

• Monthly cost of living: $655

• World ranking: #134

Albania

• Monthly cost of living:$792

• World ranking: #104
  

Montenegro

• Monthly cost of living: $861

• World ranking: #94

Croatia

• Monthly cost of living: $1,074

• World ranking: #68

My numbers are rough, but I spent about $80 per day during my three-month trip. I spent around $32.11 per day on accommodation and $48 per day on everything else: food, restaurants, tours, souvenirs, museums, and public transportation including trains, buses, and flights to Europe.

The Balkans: An Underrated European Travel Destination

I would return to the Balkans in a heartbeat. I’d love to spend time hiking in northern Montenegro, see my friends again in Ohrid, and explore the national parks in Croatia. I’ve heard great things about coworking spaces in Bulgaria and Romania, and would like to visit Serbia, Kosovo, and Moldova, as well as hike the Julia Trail in Slovenia.

When people ask about the most underrated place I’ve traveled, the Balkans instantly spring to mind. Whether you’re a first-time remote worker, or been online for years, this region is a fantastic starting point for working remotely while traveling.

Mavrovo National Park, North Macedonia